Lunch with the Fulmars
As we left Mefjord this morning we found we had a perfect wind force 3 to 4 and a gentle ocean swell which enabled us to sail on a broad reach at 5 to 6 knots out to the edge of the continental shelf where we hoped to see whales. When we got there there was a local fishing boat nearby which was an indication we might be in the right place so we hove to to have lunch.
Unfortunately no whales appeared but around 150 fulmars sat on the sea all round us grunting quietly! After lunch we took down the main as the next leg was down-wind. In fact the wind had lessened considerably so we motorsailed with the jib to Andenes(69⁰19.5N 16⁰08.2E). Soon after we left the lunch spot with many fulmars still around us 2 greater black backed gulls suddenly started chasing each other in tight circles round Larry going very low at the front so they were almost flying under the bowsprit and higher over the stern - they made about 30 or 40 circuits changing direction once or twice and then suddenly dived into the water and clearly caught some fish about 10 yards from the boat - the nearby fulmars quickly joined the gulls for a quick and noisy feast.
The clouds gradually cleared and it was a wonderfully sunny afternoon. The only slight problem was negotiating the narrow rock- strewn harbour entrance looking directly into the sun. When we came here last year it was to seek refuge from a gale; the contrast could not be greater. This time we are well-placed to really see the midnight sun for the first time. It is 10.30 pm and the sun is just past the North at 010 and is still quite high in the sky and giving appreciable warmth.
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