We left Sorvagen around noon. The wind was SW but very gentle so we motorsailed to Rost (67⁰30.4N 12⁰04.4E) making good speed because the sea was very flat and arrived about 6 pm. When we passed the maelstrom area we were aware of strong currents and some turbulence in the water but we were deliberately east of the main area although we were there at the point of the tide when there is greatest turbulence.
We passed quite close to Vaeroy which looked very industrial and picked our way cautiously into Rost by the SE entrance. The tide was falling and there are literally hundreds of rocks islets etc – all very low-lying. It had been sunny earlier in the day but it was cloudy and rather gloomy when we arrived. There were several wharves but all looked rather shallow and it was not clear where to go . However we suddenly saw someone waving from the shore and indicating we should continue to the end of the harbour. He came round and met us on the pontoon which was a little dilapidated but had a power cable. He assured us the depth would be OK although it looked a bit dodgy. In fact we were on high springs and the depth went down to 8.8 ft (we draw 6.10ft) but we established the bottom was mud and anyway we didn’t touch.
3rd August
Rost is entirely different from everywhere else we have been. It is very flat – highest point is 11m above sea level, very marshy with lots of houses and very commercial. 80% of the dried cod which is exported from Norway goes from Rost. We felt ourselves to be very much part of a thriving community.
We started by going shopping and to our surprise found the largest and best stocked supermarket we have encountered about 15 mins walk from Larry. We then walked into the centre to try to find the police to register that we are leaving Norway. Despite a notice saying police there are no police on Rost so we had to phone the man on Vaeroy. After lunch the harbour master appeared full of admiration for Larry – while we were out he had taken some photos for his 2012 brochure! He was very keen to take us on a tour of the island and to see the church and museum. So we spent the early afternoon getting the boat ready for the passage to Shetland. We managed to store the old rubber dinghy and the tinker tramp under Little Larry which gives more space below. The harbour master called at 5pm and drove us to the church where another very friendly local with excellent English showed us round the church and the house which the local historical society are turning into a museum and in general told us a lot about the local history and community. The fishing in the spring is hard work but can be very profitable. After supper we went to a nearby small cafe/pub run by the harbour master and met more of the community – all very friendly – and that plus some very welcome sun changed our view of Rost completely!
4th August
We now have a NE wind forecast force 4/5 for the next 2 or 3 days and promise of sun although it is currently overcast so we are doing the passage planning and aim to leave early afternoon.
There seems to be a problem with our Wifi connection so I probably won’t be able to publish this before we leave.
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